Kölsch under pressure: Gaffel takes over Mühlen – what does that mean for Cologne?

Kölsch under pressure: Gaffel takes over Mühlen – what does that mean for Cologne?

The Cologne beer landscape is changing! Growing challenges such as falling sales and rising production costs are affecting Kölsch breweries. The traditional Cologne brand Mühlen Kölsch will be integrated into the Gaffel private brewery from autumn 2025. Although the brand remains, it will be produced and sold by Gaffel in the future. This merger is part of a strategic partnership that includes not only the organization of joint events, but also purchasing and logistics. Both breweries want to position themselves more strongly in the market and further increase the popularity of Kölsch. Heinrich Philipp Becker, managing partner of Gaffel, is enthusiastic about the positive response from mills in the Kölschmarkt. Melanie Schwartz, managing director of the brewery zur Malzmühle, suspects that this cooperation represents an important step for both sides and praises Gaffel's experience and reach in the industry. About Drinks reports on this exciting development and the challenges that breweries are currently facing.

The changes in the Kölsch scene reflect a trend that has become clear over the last few decades: an ever increasing concentration of brands. In love with Cologne has put together an overview of the most important Kölsch brands and their owners. Family-run businesses include the Reissdorf, Früh, Gaffel and Päffgen breweries, while other brands such as Sester, Küppers and Gilden are under the Dr. Oetker stand. Despite the challenges in the beer market, the breweries are trying to preserve and continue the tradition of Kölsch.

The diversity of Kölsch

Kölsch, the light blonde, top-fermented full beer, is anything but just a drink for Cologne residents! With an alcohol content of 4.8% and a temperature of 15 to 20 °C during fermentation, Kölsch has developed into a symbol of the Rhenish lifestyle. According to the Kölsch Convention of 1985, it is only permitted to brew this beer in Cologne and the surrounding area. In the catering industry, Kölsch now has an impressive market share of 80% in the Cologne city area and is traditionally served in special 0.2 liter glasses, the popular Kölschstangen. Historically, the Cologne Brauamt has a long tradition that dates back to 1250, which underlines the importance of beer in this region. Wikipedia offers a comprehensive overview of the eventful history of Kölsch.

Whether Gaffel, Mühlen or the other traditional brands – they all stand together for the Cologne attitude to life and what makes the city and its people so unique. As breweries look for creative ways to address the challenges and strengthen their brands, it remains to be seen how the future of Kölsch will evolve. However, one thing is certain: Cologne's gastronomy remains a place of joie de vivre and conviviality!